Many of the columns that I have written for The Vast Repast reference Martino and the Martino tradition. This one originally ran in May of 2003.

Please note that The Vast Repast is for popular consumption in the newspaper and magazine market and has a very different tone and structure than other works on the subject.

Renaissance Recipes are Easy Modern Meals

Within the grand tapestry of Renaissance art and culture is a little known treasure called the Epulario (the banquet), a fascinating cookbook overflowing with delightful recipes easily adapted to the modern table. The Epulario has an interesting history, in 1516 Giovanne de Rosselli’s edition was printed. A huge success, it was re-printed throughout the 16th century in Germany, France, Italy and, in 1598, England.

For the next four hundred years the Epulario was attributed to Rosselli, then in 1932 J.D. Vehling, discovered a 15th century manuscript written in a Tuscan dialect “composed by the respected Maestro Martino, former cook to the Most Reverend Monsignor the Chamberlain and Patriarch of Aquileia.” Through Vehling’s discovery, now in the Library of Congress, an inscription in the first printed cookbook, De Honesta Voluptate (Of Honest Indulgence) written by the philosopher Platina, suddenly made sense. Platina writes, “which cook could compete with my friend Martino of Como, with whom originates to a large extent that which I am writing here.” The Tuscan manuscript was almost identical to the last five chapters of De Honesta and all of Rosselli’s Epulario including the 1598 English edition.

Martino worked in the kitchen of Ludovico Trevisan, Papal Chamberlain to five Popes who was renowned for his lavish spending on food. In this kitchen Martino tested and refined the 261 recipes in his cookbook. These recipes range from the simple, (fritatas, sausages, and pasta), to the exotic, (“To dresse a Peacocke with all his feathers”). Thanks to Joseph Vehling, Maestro Martino can, after four centuries, take his place in history.

The English edition of the Epulario was “translated out of Italian into English” in 1598. It was “printed by A.I. for William Barely, and (was) to be sold at his shop in Gratious street, neere Leaden-hall.”

To roast a Pig.

First let him be scalded white and clean, then cut him in the belly and take out the guts and entrails, and wash it clean, then shred Garlick very small with lard, grated

Cheese, Eggs, Pepper, and a little Saffron, mix them together and put them into the Pig, then sow it up and spit it, but let him roast soakingly, & let him be well roasted both outwardly and inwardly, then make a little liquor with vinegar, Saffron, and two branches of Rosemary or Sage, and baste the Pig therewith.

A whole suckling pig is a little ambitious, but this version, substituting pork loin, is ideal for an elegant dinner party. Asiago cheese is the perfect complement to the pork. If asiago is not available substitute romano.  

Renaissance Stuffed Pork Loin

1 lbs. pork tenderloin2 tablespoons rosemary  

5 cloves garlic, crushed1/2 teaspoon saffron

2 tablespoons butter1/2 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups asiago cheese, grated1/2 cup red wine

1 teaspoon pepper 1/2 cup beef broth

2 eggs, slightly beaten1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon saffron

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. 

Create a hollow inside the pork loin by inserting a knife length-wise down the center. Enlarge the hole by inserting a wooden spoon handle and rotating it until there is a sizable hole. Alternately the loin can be flattened, stuffed and tied.

Combine the garlic, butter, cheese, pepper, eggs and saffron. Stuff this mixture into the loin. Use skewers to close each end of the loin. In a very hot frying pan sear all sides of the loin.

Mix vinegar, rosemary and saffron. Baste the meat with 1/3 of this marinade. Cook the stuffed loin for 20 minutes basting twice with the remaining liquid.

Remove meat from the baking dish. Place the dish over medium heat and de-glaze with red wine. Mix broth and arrowroot together until smooth and add to the baking dish. Heat until thick. Slice the pork into rounds. Serve hot, floating in the sauce. Serves four.

This recipe is a change from the everyday stuffed chicken. Use whatever fresh herbs you have at hand. Oregano, marjoram, parsley, and rosemary are all appropriate.  Leave out the livers if you are not partial to them.

Roasted Capon with a Fruit Stuffing

1 medium capon or chicken1/4 cup lard

1 16 oz. can sour cherries1/2 cup fresh herbs, chopped

1 cup dried prunes, chopped1/2 cup bread crumbs

1/2 cup fresh herbs1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chicken livers

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Wash the capon and set aside. Drain the sour cherries. In a bowl combine the cherries, prunes and fresh herbs. Sauté the chicken livers in a few tablespoons of the cherry juice and some oil until they are slightly firm. Chop the livers into medium size pieces and add to the cherry mixture. Stuff the mixture into the cavity of the capon.

Combine lard and second amount of fresh herbs.  Spread the lard and herb mixture onto the bird.

Roast for 1 hour or until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees.

Combine the breadcrumbs and salt. Just before the capon reaches temperature sprinkle it with the seasoned breadcrumbs.  Turn the oven temperature up to 450 degrees for the last 5 to ten minutes until the breadcrumbs have browned.

Renaissance cheese tarts are in almost every cookbook of the time period. This one adds an interesting flavor that is not common in modern cooking. Leave out the rose and substitute orange flavoring for a more modern rendition. Remember to use only organically grown roses preferably from your own garden.

Cherry Cheese Tart

1 16 oz. can sour cherries1/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup rose petals  1 teaspoon ground ginger

(reserve 10 petals for garnish)1/4 teaspoon ground pepper

1/2 pound fresh goat cheese1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 pound cream cheesepre-baked 9 inch shortbread crust

1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese3 tablespoons flavored rosewater

3 beaten eggs1/4 cup extra fine sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a food processor puree cherries until they are smooth. Place cherry puree in a large non-reactive bowl. Coarsely chop rose petals and fold into cherries.

Beat the goat cheese, cream cheese and parmesan cheese until smooth. Add to this mixture to the beaten eggs and sugar. Continue to beat until incorporated. Add spices and mix until combined. Fold the cheese and egg mixture into the cherries. Pour into a pre-baked pie shell and bake for 45 minutes or until pie is set and slightly golden.

Cool slightly. Then drizzle with rose water and sugar, then garnish with reserved petals. Serve at room temperature. Makes approximately ten slices.

Research into food history is increasing and there are more and more good books on the subject available. Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks by Constance B. Hieatt is a good one to start with because this $18.95 list price paperback (ISBN 0802076327) is historically accurate and has a good sample of recipes for the modern cook to recreate.

Odile Redon and the other authors of The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy have done a great job of merging history and recipes. This paperback (ISBN 0226706850) is a good all around historical cookbook to add to your and lists for $18.00.

Food is life. May the plenty that graces your table truly be a vast repast.

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2003 D. Walddon